Expectation vs Reality; WalesDURO19

Expectations

The stats gave us pretty much all we needed to know; over 300km in just two days with some meaty off-road sections, plus an elevation profile that resembled the spine of a Stegosaurus. This was Wales end-to-end so it wasn’t going to be a picnic, but boy was I excited about it. 

The Racing Collective annual Bangor to Cardiff ride had been in my diary all year, and thankfully now close to the weekend the weather was looking really great. Knowing there’d be some tough climbing and probably hike-a-bike ahead, I packed super light with just a frame and handlebar bag, minimal clothing and camping kit. 

On board the packed and stuffy carriages of a cross-Wales train, we swapped thoughts and expectations about the two days of riding ahead. 

‘Savage climbs, long descents, a fair bit of pushing and carrying my bike… drinking beers in a field while trying not to get eaten alive by midges. Some pretty great pudding made by Daf’s mum.’

John

‘Ticks. Probably gonna fall off at some stage. It’s gonna be hard, and long, but I haven’t really looked at the route, I’ll just follow you lot!’

Steve

‘Just the hills. That first quarry that we go through, that’s horrible. There’s waterfalls, it’s amazing, I’ve been and taken photos there.’

Tudor

‘I’m hoping to learn lots, the legs are fine on road, but this is one of the first times I’m trying off road. I hope it’s not too extreme.’

Steven

Reality

John shook my hammock repeatedly as I tried to curl up into a tighter ball away from the daylight. ‘Come on, it’s started raining. Get up before all the kit gets wet’. Okay, an hour of Welsh rain in the morning wouldn’t be a great hardship, I thought. Little did I know, that set the precedent for the whole day ahead. 

Leaving our wild camping spot and heading to the rendez-vous under the impressive Menai Bridge, we met the 26-odd other riders that had travelled from all over the UK, most of which we’d met in the pub the night before. On the damp morning, we all rolled out of Bangor after the compulsory group photo and saying a few words to the effect of ‘have fun – don’t ride like a dick’.

Quiet cycle lanes brought us out of the town on our mission South, first tackling the mighty Snowdonia with lanes that pitched upwards for what seemed like forever up into the cloud. I don’t know what possessed me to not bring a raincoat to Wales, but it’s the kind of mistake you only make once. It was warm at least, but very wet. 

Summiting at 560m, we were onto the first timed segment of the weekend and congregated with a dozen or so other riders. I was in no way interested in racing these – simply getting round two massive days would be enough for me. With visibility at about 50m, we began to descend on the knife-like slates of Dinorwig – the electric mountain – tentatively edging down the loose and slippery wet doubletrack. 

It wasn’t far at all before disaster struck. A 2 inch slice in one of John’s new tyres suddenly dampened an already very soggy situation. Steve and I pulled up for moral support as John booted and glued the tyre, popping an inner tube in as all the other riders flew down the mountain sending their commiserations. 

It’s just not what you want at 20km into a 155km day, John was really having a sense of humour failure and Steve and I were frozen and wet through. With the tyre holding, we carefully crept down the slate mine switchbacks, past ruins of buildings and quarry relics, diverting to Llanberis to The Framed Bicycle Co for a heroic save to our ride in the form of a new tyre.

Back on track the route climbed on the road up Pen Y Pass, a popular Snowdon stretch, and a long, fast main road descent on the other side to Capel Curig. This is where the second hitch of the day came about, where a lane turned into a farm track and then into a unrideable bog stretch of hike-a-bike and barbed wire fence wrangling. Turned out we had two versions of the route, and mine was going a bit wayward. At least when we finally reached the drovers road that we were meant to be on, it was all the sweeter. 

A fast gravel road descent delivered us to Dolwyddelan, where we snaffled hot cheese slices from the Spar shop, conscious that we were already well behind. No casual cafe stops today. The route continued on road for a good while, climbing to Blaenau Ffestiniog slate mines and thankfully onto quieter lanes from Trawsfynydd, where we picked up Bob who’d been abandoned by his friend in favour of somewhere warmer and drier. 

By mid afternoon and another great soaking we reached the forested trails of Coed Y Brenin, taking muddy singletrack down to river level and heading out of the trail centre on loose gravel roads. We were right on the edge of Dolgellau now, then a leg to Machynlleth and the final, beautiful stretch to Daf’s farm. I knew the last section would be spectacular having taken in that valley last summer, so it was just getting to the next two towns that would be the challenge. 

With all of my clothes soaked and having packed very light, I dashed into an outdoors shop in Dolgellau centre and begrudgingly parted with £45 for a warm, dry fleece that would be my saviour later at camp. Much to my delight, when I rejoined the guys I found a hot cheese and broccoli pastry slice waiting for me. What gems. We were joined by Carl from Leeds who I’d met on the first climb, and also had an equally heartbreaking morning with a tubeless slice on the slate and had diverted to Betws Y Coed for a new tyre. 

On a map, the way to Mach didn’t look all that far, but there was a big berg on the profile to get over. I used my distraction tactic on the lane climb to start by picking a posy for my handlebars from the hedgerow as we climbed, which certainly made it pass easier. We turned onto tarmaced cycleways across farmland, and the most amazing Sustrans route 8 avoiding a major pass road. It was just us and the sheep as we tackled the beastly climb in peace. 

At the top I announced to the boys that I’d made an executive decision; we were getting shandies in Mach. It wasn’t only because I’d run out of water – but the incentive really helped, not to mention the 30 minutes of rest after a very full on day. We were now at 125km from 155, and having been on the road for 10 hours already we were understandably very tired. 

The climb out of Mach was one I knew from flying down it in the opposite direction, on tour with Handsome Sam last year, recceing the GBDURO route. Steep narrow lanes yielded into long gravel switchbacks, and I had to coach myself a few times to just keep going. I just kept ‘little Scotland’ in my mind; the rocky doubletrack ahead that contours along the valley with Nant Y Moch reservoir to the right. I was already telling everyone that they were about to ride the best gravel in Wales, but in a fit of elation at turning out of the woods and seeing the track ahead, I could easily declare it’s the best stretch of gravel I have ever had the pleasure to ride. 

I call it ‘little Scotland’ because in the whole landscape there’s simply nothing man-made as far as the eye can see – apart from the trail you’re on of course. The terrain is challenging on a gravel bike, but in a good way that tests and rewards you, giving you a buzz when you push on through a tricky uphill stint or nail a rocky descent. I’d forgotten about the river crossing halfway, too, but no-one was too upset at the prospect of getting their feet wet. I loved it. 

The setting sun was casting a golden light over the valley side. Spirits were high, we were just kilometres of winding empty smooth road down to Pontewyd where we filled our pockets at the garage with snacks for tomorrow and gulped down some blue-top milk. Recovery at it’s finest. We weren’t the last at the campsite, as Daf’s mum ushered us into the barn and plied us with wonderful Welsh Cawl, bread and cheddar, plus plentiful puddings. 

Rather than indulge in a few beers and catch up with the riders that I’d been dreaming of, priorities of showering and setting up the hammock came first. It must have been 10pm by that time, and with a made bed in the trees it was just too tempting. I pulled my aching, exhausted body into my cosy cocoon for the night and was out like a light. 

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It was bloody tough hauling myself out of bed at my 6.30am alarm, with breakfast being served up in the barn from 7 and a 165km day ahead. Just that thought made me crave resting in my bed longer and reinforced my recent epiphany about what kind of bike riding I would really like to do right now. More on that later. 

At least packing light meant there was very little to pack up on the bike, but I was so glad of the emergency fleece purchase which had helped as the night was much colder than anticipated. After a hearty breakfast and a heavy dose of faffing from the boys, yesterday’s group of stragglers naturally reformed and we set off up the farm track; John, Steve, Bob, Carl and I. 

The day started on the reversed GBDURO route, on forestry gravel roads to Hafod Arch, through the Hafod Estate, and out onto the road to Ffair Rhos. I’d been bigging up this next section to the group and a couple others that joined us – we’d ridden it back in May with the For The Hell Of It boyos to Claerddu bothy. It snakes up immaculate tarmac up onto the moorland, twisting and ramping up sharply, past the Teifi Pools. No time to swim today, we’re constantly pressing on and trying to minimise faff time in favour of actually getting somewhere before dark. 

It was a thought that had been playing on my mind since we rolled into camp the night before. Although we’d passed along some incredible trails the day before on our mega 155km battle, John had confessed to me more than once that he wasn’t having fun. We weren’t there to race anyone else, yet we were racing the daylight. I’d felt every second of every stop slipping by, every pause to don a coat, pee or pick up snacks. We’d spent hours hiking across bogs feeling like we were going backwards, so the pressure was really on to keep momentum to get us to camp. I’m growing to learn that this just isn’t the kind of riding I’m into right now, and the fun was creeping out of it for me too. I yielded to my thought and put it to John, who was in full agreement. 

We decided to ride the first few sections of the day and then find a way to make it back to Bristol without tackling The Gap and the downhill road run-in to Cardiff. I reminded myself that I’m not a professional rider and paid to ride my bike, but I choose to do this for fun. When something ceases to be fun, you have to wonder what your motivation is.

With the pressure of another 145km to tackle removed, a huge weight was lifted and you could visibly see that we were back to usual spirits – high ones that was. The gorgeous road from Ffair Rhos tested our legs as it continued to ramp up, past the bothy and then delightfully crumbling into a rocky doubletrack road. I sped ahead knowing that there was a tasty stream crossing to come, splashing through to get in position to take some snaps of my fellow riders as they tackled the stony stream bed. Some went full send, others tip-toed across the stepping stones further down. We almost all had soggy shoes but it just didn’t matter today – the sun was shining at last. 

Passing a remote farm, the rough gravel road then twists around the edges of Claerwen reservoir to the mighty damn; one of six that characterises the Elan Valley. It’s undulating and certainly not straight, hugging the hillside and contouring around every inlet.

We bumped into Ruth, Lee and Huw with an unfortunate flat, and as we waited for John to catch up with a puncture too, we had ten minutes of bliss, lying about on the grass. It really felt like the first time we’d paused all weekend. 

With the gorgeous Claerwen reservoir done, the route ahead was a long road section to Brecon, the famous MTB route of The Gap Road which is the 600m rocky pass between Pen Y Fan and Cribyn peaks of the Beacons. After tackling that beast, which I know well, the route headed net downhill to Cardiff mostly on road. Diverting here for Builth Wells and missing these two large road sections and the torturous Gap Road (well, on very tired legs and a rigid gravel bike) didn’t seem like a bad idea at all, so John and I ushered the others to crack on whilst we made a plan. 

It was midday already and we dreamt of a relaxed pub lunch, savouring our food rather than stuffing it into our faces in a rush. There were two options; take the road direct to Builth, or carry on the WalesDURO route for 15km which linked up with the Builth road anyway. We certainly would have taken the road route if we’d realised what was ahead…

Nearly 2 hours and 15km of boggy cross-country hike a bike later, we finally reached the main road and found about 10 riders in the pub garden scoffing chips and downing coke. That had been a brutal section where it took everything not to have a sense of humour failure; you just have to laugh or you’d cry! At the end there had been a descent on a rutty doubletrack which finally looked rideable, until it became so broken up and steep that I had to carry my bike down it. How demoralising. 

We wished the riders well as we parted again this time for the last time & headed to Builth Wells for now a very late lunch and the arrival of ‘The Calvary’ – i.e. John’s brother. Turns out getting trains out of mid Wales, especially on a Sunday afternoon is very hard.

Should you ride WalesDURO 2020?

There is no denying that WalesDURO is a stunning route and a brutal challenge for anyone looking to take on two days of Wales’ best and most testing off road, whilst being mostly self supported. There’s such a camaraderie to an event like this, but saying that there’s no reason why you couldn’t ride the route on your own or with friends at some other time.

If I was going to tackle it again, I’d plan three days of 100km and take it all in a bit more. Was it what I expected? Much, much harder, and not at all like the weather forecast. Lesson learnt, never go to Wales without a raincoat.

As always, a huge thanks to the organisers behind The Racing Collective who work selflessly to spread the long distance gospel and encourage more people ride by their free events. You should totally check them out here.